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Historical Clothing Terms

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Aesthetic Movement – began towards the end of the 19^th century. The Aesthetic Movement was a fashion rebellion against restrictive and unhealthy garments such as corsets and petticoats. Aesthetes dressed in styles that geared towards comfort and practicality, and were considered scandalous to mainstream society.

Attifet - a late 16th century ladies hat. The Attifet came to a point just above the forehead and had a veil at the back. It is sometimes referred to as a Mary Stuart cap as numerous historical portraits show her wearing an Attifet.

Balmoral – is the Scottish version of a beret. The Balmoral has a fitted band with a wider gathered top that sits on the head and hangs rakishly to one side. It was often times worn with a clan badge or other ornamentation attached and was often made from clan tartan.

Baroque – spanning roughly from 1600 to the mid 1700’s. The Baroque period has been defined in history as a period of decadence and splendor as demonstrated by the amazingly elaborate gowns of Marie Antoinette and Mozart. Stunning brocades, yards and yards of lace and the wearing tall white wigs were standard for the upper classes. It also includedes the Cavalier style of the Muskateers.

Basque – A tightly fitting bodice with a peplum or flared waistline.

Biggin – a cap or hood predominately made of linen. A Biggin would cover the entire head including the ears and would tie under the chin. It was more functional than ornamental.

Blackwork - Blackwork embroidery was extremely common and could be quite elaborate. It refers to the use of a single color of embroidery thread to create an ornamenting pattern on a garment that is repetitive in the selected design. Although most commonly done in black, blackwork has been documented in many colors, dozens of patterns and designs, and on many different parts of the clothing.

Bliaut – A Medieval garment worn by both sexes in the 12^th through 13^th centuries. The Bliaut could be of varying lengths for a man, but was floor length for a woman. It was a long flowing tunic with full sleeves, often adorned with blackwork embroidery or contrasting fabrics at the neckline and hems.

Bodice – The part of a gown that is worn on the torso. Bodices come in many styles. Styles include the corset-style bodice (no shoulder straps), front-lacing, side-lacing, back-lacing, and many more. The term bodice refers to this portion of a dress regardless of the style or fabrics the gown is made of.

Boning – The support built into the corset. Over the years it was made from many different materials such as metal, whalebone, reeds, wooden, or (modern) plastic. Boning is also often referred to as stays. In modern reproductions, polyester or plastic boning refers to either narrow Ľ” boning which is sold already sewn into channels to be added to the garment, or ˝” Rigilene boning, which has flexibility but can give support if used properly and in proper quantities. Steel boning should refer to either Ľ” or ˝” steel which is cut into pieces the proper length for boning a garment. They should be finished off at the ends in some manner for safety, either coated or covered in fabric.

Boot Hose – High leg coverings with a flared top worn over regular hose.

Bracers – Coverings for the forearms, Bracers functioned as part of a man’s armor and would have been made of strengthened or plated leather, or metal, depending on what he could afford.

Breeches – Common term for men’s pants. They would vary greatly in style, length, and fabrics, depending upon the period and the wearer’s economic status. Sometimes also known as “slops.”

Bumroll – A stuffed, crescent shaped undergarment worn just below the waistline, which gave a lady’s skirts an outward roll from the waistline.

Busk – An inverted triangular piece of wood, animal horn or whalebone, used to provide stiffening and support at the front of a corset.

Bustle – This usually refers to drawing up the skirts of a gown to protect them from damage on streets or from being stepped on. Historically, gowns would often have clever little concealed buttons, hooks or even drawstrings that provided for the bustling of a gown when walking outdoors which could then be easily let down once inside. The technique is now often used for bridal gowns. Bustles also refers to the exaggerated back side of skirts in the Victorian years C. 1870 through 1890. Victorian bustles were often elaborately decorated and called all attention to the back of a gown and were considered scandalous when they first appeared.

Cape – Outer garment providing warmth and protection to garments. It can be either hooded or unhooded and can vary in length from the hips to floor.

Carcanet – The period term for a jeweled necklace.

Caul – Cauls were the snoods of the Elizabethan era. They were worn over a bun or other upswept hairstyle and could be either netting or fabric. They were often worn underneath other headwear such as hoods or hats.

Chatelaine – A hook or elaborate brooch or pin that attached to a woman’s bodice or waist. Many times ornamental chains bearing useful items such as scissors, stamp cases, needle cases, and many, many other items were attached.

Chemise – A must have for both men and women. The chemise was used as nightwear or undershirt and provided some measure of ornamentation to the wearer's costume all in one. The fabrics that chemises varied widely depending upon financial status, but were absolutely universal. No one would leave home without a proper chemise on. Normally white or off-white in color since it had to go through vigorous laundering and expensive dyes would not have held. The chemise is often also referred to as a shift or smock.

Cloak – Outer garment providing warmth and protection to garments. Usually hooded, a cloak would generally be full length.

Cod Piece - Triangular often elaborately trimmed and padded fabric worn to cover the front opening in breeches. They were often hollow and functioned as a sort of pocket.

Coif – A fitted cap made in a range of fabrics depending on its intended use (everyday wear, evening wear) and the wearer’s budget. Coifs were made of fabrics ranging from linen to silk and were the respectable headwear for women during the Renaissance period. The Renaissane women would not have walked around with their heads bare or their hair showing, unless they wanted to be considered "wanton".

Corset, Renaissance - The renaissance era corset did not necessarily exist to make women's waists tiny, they were intended to give the desired silhouette that was fashionable at a particular time and location. This ranged from the almost barrel-shape with no discernable curves, to extremely elongated and almost triangular.

Corset Tabs – elongations of the corset. Made with or without boning continuing past the waist and toward the hips. Tabs help prevent corsets from digging into your waist and also help keep your skirts in place around your waistline.

Cotehardie - A general term used for an outer garment or tunic worn by both sexes during the Middle Ages. Usually made at three quarters length and with a round neckline.

Cravat - Cravats were rather like a handkerchief blossoming just below a man's throat. Often made in very fine and elaborate fabrics, the cravat would usually have an ornamental pin which held the lower part of it in place.

Drawers – Womens’ undergarment relatively similar to modern day men's boxer shorts. Drawers would tie at the waistline and were loose fitting. The entire crotch seam was left unsewn for convenience.

Doublet – Outer garment for the torso worn by men during the 16^th and 17^th centuries. The fabrics and trim would vary depending on class. A poor man might have a doublet made of course linen or woolen, while a man of means would have silk, satin or velvet trimmed in jewels and covered in slashings to show his status.

Epaulets – Ornaments on the shoulders of a garment. It can refer to the gold tasseled pieces worn in some military groups, or a crescent shaped addition to the shoulders of a bodice or doublet.

Farthingale – An underskirt that was stretched over hoops to support skirts. The farthingales shape depended on the silhouette currently in fashion. They were made out of many fabrics from coarse linen to taffeta or silk depending upon the wearer’s economic status and preferences. The hoops were made of iron wire, whalebone, steel, cording, and other materials.

Forepart – Foreparts could either refer to the front of an underskirt or kirtle. It could also be a totally separate piece of elaborate, expensive fabric that would be attached to a kirtle. An overskirt would then be draped over the kirtle and forepart. Foreparts generally matched the undersleeves of the gown.

French Hood – The French Hood was round in shape, and almost gave the wearer a “halo” effect. Constructed of two parts called the “paste” and the “band,” the French Hood was usually constructed of fabric which matched a gown, and ornamented elaborately with pearls, biliments and trims.

Gable Hood – The Gable Hood was popular in the early part of the 16^th century. Its name is derived from the four-sectioned shape of the hood that is pointed at the top of the head. It comes to two more creases about midway down the sides of the head, and frames the face with what looks like a gable.

Garters – Bands of fabric or ribbon usually fastened with small buckles used to hold up hosiery.

Gauntlets – Gauntlets refer to coverings for the hand and forearm in armor. They would have been made of anything ranging from stiffened or plated leather, to chain mail and armor.

Girdle - Girdles referred to the jeweled, pearled and elaborate strings of beading that noblewomen wore around their waists. Often made with precious metals and stones, enamels, pearls, and biliments, the girdles usually had some sort of ornament at the end, such as a pomander or cross.

Greatcoat – Commonly associated with the famous Holbein portrait of Henry VIII, the greatcoat was an extremely wide, rather all-encompassing garment worn over regular garments, both for splendor and also for warmth.

Habit - in the period, the term habit referred to an ensemble of garments all of one color. It came to be associated with garments such as a riding habit, or the habit of a member of a religious order.

Hoop Skirt – See “Farthingale.”

Houppelande – See “Tunic.”

Jerkin - An outer doublet that was usually sleeveless.

Kirtle - In the 16th and 17th centuries the kirtle referred to the underskirt or underdress. When the kirtle was an underskirt, it often had a forepart of elaborate and expensive fabric in the front (which would show through the opening in the front of the overskirt), and the sides and back would be made of less expensive and plainer fabric.

Leine – “Leine” is the Gaelic word for “shirt” or “tunic” and can correctly be used to refer to any type of shirt. Leines were not originally worn as undergarments in the strict sense of the word. They were worn underneath over-robes, often were a saffron color, tucked up in pleats at the waist to be knee-length on men, and had embroidery at the neckline and hems. In modern garb terminology, the term leine is used to indicate an Irish and/or Scottish version of the chemise. Current reproductions most often have sleeves with a row of vertical gathers or pleats up the top of the arm.

Lodier - Quilted, padded fabric used to increase the girth of a woman's hips.

Madici Collar - Popular in the 16th century, this type of collar was worn standing to frame the wearer's head.

Manteau/Mantua - In the 17th and 18th centuries, an overdress worn with a bodice and elaborate petticoat beneath.

Mantle – A wrap or covering.

Muffin Cap – Muffin caps are the larger version of a caul and made of fabric which is a good deal wider than the band it is attached to. The muffin cap would serve the same purpose as a caul.

Paned Breeches – Breeches with panels, or “panes,” of contrasting fabric running vertically from waist to cuff; often with puffs of the breeches fabric in between.

Panniers – Panniers were the hoop skirts of the 18^th century. Also known as “hip improvers,” they were flat in front and back, and gave extremely wide hips to the wearer. They were often open in front (due to the flatness of the front, otherwise the wearer would have been unable to walk) and were no longer than knee length.

Partlet – Although reproduction partlets are often made as full chemises with open fronts, in period they were usually made to cover just the open neckline. It would be worn in addition to a regular chemise and gathers into a high neckline with an often elaborate and ornamented collar that fastens in the front. It would then tie under the arms underneath the gown. The partlet was often open down the front, so it could be worn open at the neckline, or closed. Lore has it that the partlet would be worn open by maidens and closed by married ladies.

Passementerie – Trims that were made of elaborately stitched designs in braid or cording.

Pattens – Pattens were over-shoes that were worn to protect valuable and easily destroyed fabric shoes from mud, water and dirt on the streets. They were carved of wood and usually rather high both at the heel and the toe to keep the shoes up off the ground. A leather strap would secure the pattern over the shoes.

Peascod Belly – A stuffed pillow-type object used to stuff the front of a man’s doublet to fill it out to the desired shape according to the times.

Pelisse – A long lady’s cloak or wrap.

Petticoat – Petticoats had a wide range of uses including giving the proper silhouette to a gown for its fashion period, and preventing the hoops of a hoop skirt from showing through the outer garments. Often elaborately ruffled, they consisted of many layers and fabrics ranged from muslin, cotton and linens, to silk, satin and tulle.

Piccadils – Small, semi-circular tabs added to the waist or armholes of a bodice or doublet, as ornamentation.

Polonaise – An overdress popular in the late 17^th through early 18^th centuries. It would have overskirts drawn back over an underskirt to create a draping effect at the sides.

Regency – This term refers to the period of fashion in the first two to three decades of the 19^th century. In women’s garments, the period was marked by extremely high “Empire” waistlines, slim and slender a-line skirts, sheer and lightweight flowing fabrics. Their Grecian drapings and hairstyles gave the wearer the look of a Roman goddess.

Renaissance – In fashion, the Renaissance era is loosely defined as the late 15^th century through the end of the 16^th century. It is often characterized by Elizabethan clothing styles, including the elongated and narrow-waisted gowns elaborately jeweled, pearled and slashed; wide farthingales, ruffs and headrails. However, it also includes the more striking and simple era referred to as Tudor, with bolder colors and less ornamentation, squared necklines and “Boleyn” style sleeves.

Revers – A term that refers to lapels on a gentleman’s coat.

Ruff – Ruffs were an absolute necessity for both well dressed men and women during the Elizabethan era. Made of starched linen and often ornamented with lace, ruffs were worn at the neck and also at the wrists.

Sacque Dress – Introduced by the French in the 1750’s, the sacque gown was an overdress constructed with box pleating at the shoulder blades, from which the gown would usually fall to a train. The sacque gown was worn over a regular bodice and petticoat combination.

Sacristan - a type of farthingale constructed of brass wire, with 5 or 6 hoops.

Safeguard – A thick, utilitarian outer skirt, often placed over elaborate garb to protect it from the elements when out of doors or riding.

Saffron - A color much used during the Medieval period and the Renaissance, saffron is a bright, vibrant cross between gold and orange.

Shift – see “Chemise.”

Skirted Doublet – A doublet with attached skirting, which could range from a few inches in width, to knee or even ankle length. Knee length skirted doublets were the fashion in the middle of Henry VIII’s reign.

Skirting – A band of fabric attached to the lower edge of a doublet.

Slashing - Small finished slits in the outer layer of clothing that showed the garments beneath. Often edged with trims or needlework.

Slops – See “Breeches.”

Smock – See “Chemise.”

Snood – Basically a hairnet. In Renaissance periods, the snood would be fashioned in a manner similar to weaving fishnets by knotting strings together to form a web. Crocheted snoods did not come into existence until centuries later. See “Caul.”

Stays – see “Boning.”

Stomacher - A panel of contrasting, often elaborately trimmed or jewelled fabric in somewhat triangular form (wider at neckline than at waistline), which was placed on the front of a bodice. Stomachers were often detachable and there is some evidence that they were often used to conceal the front lacings on a bodice.

Sumptuary Laws – These acts were the attempts of the wealthy to keep the lesser people in their place. With rising financial means in the lower and middle classes, the “lessers” were beginning to garb themselves as well as their “betters.” It was feared that the clearly defined separations between the classes would begin to break down if something wase not done. The laws were rarely applied due to their impracticality and unenforceability, but they laid out plainly (and with extreme specificity) what fabrics, ornamentation, and styles could be worn by each layer of society.

Tabard – A tabard was a long, rectangular piece with a hole for the head. They are the outer layer worn by Musketeers and Knights Templar.

Tippet - A short shoulder length cape.

Tunic – Tunics are wonderful, garb-for-all-occasions. Shaped rather like t-shirts, although longer in length (and often made with long sleeves), tunics are versatile pieces that can be worn over the undergarments and with a simple belt for day wear.

Underskirt - see “Kirtle.”

Verdingal – see “Farthingale.”

Waistcoat – This term refers to the vest of a gentlemen anywhere between the 18^th and early 20^th centuries. Often made of beautiful brocades and very expensive fabrics, the waistcoat would often be a dash of color in a gentleman’s otherwise rather monochromatic fashion.

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